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In once flourishing Aden, Yemeni matriarch recalls British Queen’s visit

Aden, Yemen
Reuters

Kulthoom Muhammad Saeed was 12-years-old when a young Queen Elizabeth II visited Aden, then one of the world’s busiest fuelling ports and a strategic piece of Britain’s crumbling global empire. 

Nearly seven decades later, Yemen’s long years of war and neglect have taken a devastating toll on Aden, and the death of the Queen has made Kulthoom nostalgic.

“Honestly, we were comfortable in the British colonial days. We weren’t suffering,” the diminutive 80-year-old said, describing how she was able to raise a family of six on a modest income. “When we were under colonialism, we were in God’s grace and safety.” 

Yemen Aden Kulthoom Muhammad Saeed

Kulthoom Muhammad Saeed, 80, talks to Reuters at her home about memories of the Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to Aden in 1954 during the period that it was a colony within the British Empire, in Aden,Yemen, on 11th September. PICTURE: Reuters/Fawaz Salman

Queen Elizabeth II died last week aged 96 after a 70-year reign. She was Britain’s longest-serving and most travelled monarch.

Speaking in her home next to a hospital founded by the Queen, Kulthoom said young and old in Aden turned out to welcome her during a 24-hour visit in 1954, part of a round-the-world tour Elizabeth made in the first year after her coronation.



News footage of the visit showed the Queen awarding knighthoods to a senior British air force officer and aYemeni leader from the eastern Hadramaut region, and watching a march past of Yemeni troops, some riding camels.

“The people were all content, young and old were happy,” Kulthoom said, listing districts of Aden where residents turned out to greet the Queen.

Yemen Aden

A view of Big Ben Aden, a clock tower built beside Aden harbour during the period that Aden,Yemen was a colony within the British Empire, on 9th September. PICTURE: Reuters/Fawaz Salman

Uprising and war
A bronze plaque still marks the foundation stone Elizabeth laid for a hospital which bore her name until the end of British rule in 1967, when it changed to Jumhouriya (Republic) Hospital.

In that intervening decade the goodwill on display during the Queen’s visit dissolved. A four-year uprising, during which hundreds of people were killed, drove out British troops. 

Britain had captured Aden in 1839, seizing it to control the entrance to the Red Sea and protect routes to India. In 1937 it became a Crown Colony with great strategic importance to the British.

Aden then became the capital of the socialist South Yemen, which merged with the north in 1990 before unsuccessfully trying to break away in a civil war four years later. The city has seen heavy fighting again in the latest conflict which broke out when fighters from the Iran-aligned Houthi movement seized much of the country in 2014. 

Yemen Aden Nouria Naji

Nouria Naji, who heads the Yemeni Education and Relief Organization, talks to Reuters as she stands in front of a picture showing Queen Elizabeth giving her the Order of the British Empire Award in 2013, in her home in Sanaa, Yemen, on 12th September. PICTURE: Reuters/Adel Al-Khadher

For Nouria Naji, director of the Yemen Education and Relief Organisation which has championed access to education for poorer children over the last two challenging decades, the death of Queen Elizabeth II also brought back memories.

Naji was honoured by the Queen in 2013 for her work, which was described in her citation as transforming the lives of women and children in Yemen. 

Holding a picture of her investiture ceremony in London, she said she stood proudly “as if I were a soldier” as the Queen made her an Officer of the Order of the British Empire, as her award is formally known. 

“When they called my name: ‘Nouria Naji is honoured for her work in Yemen,’ the name of Yemen made me feel that I was holding the whole world in my hands,” she said. “It was a great honour and great pride”.

– Additional reporting by RIAM MUKHASHAF, KHALED ABDULLAH, ABDULRAHMAN AL-ANSI and MOHAMED AL-GHOBARI

 

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